Top 10 Things To Stock Your Fishing Vest With

If you're anything like me, you where a fishing vest to carry all of your fishing gear. If you do any walking during your fishing trip, a tackle box just doesn't cut it. So you need to wear a fishing vest. You can find them at any decent sporting goods store or of course on the internet. I believe this idea began with fly fishermen (or flea flickers as my mentor used to refer to them), but I'm not positive about that. In any case, it's a very convenient idea, and if flea flickers are the reason for it, god bless 'em.

So what do you need to carry in your fishing vest? Pretty much anything that you think you may need on a given fishing excursion. This will vary depending on the type of fish that you're fishing for, but there are some basics. I'll begin with them.

1) Weights and swivels - your going to need weights and swivels of various sizes. I keep them in empty film containers. They are a very convenient way to carry both weights and swivels.

2) Hooks - the same deal on this one, unless you know exactly what type you're going to use. The important thing is to have some back-ups.

3) Spinners/Spoons - your going to want a few small plastic boxes (that fit in the pockets of the vest). Then stock said boxes with spinners and spoons of varying sizes. Make sure you have at least 2 of each option that you choose to carry. Just think of Noah. If the fish are biting on a certain lure, and you get snagged and lose that lure, you'll be glad you have a back-up.

4) Stainless steel pliers or hemostats. This is obviously to remove hooks from the fish's mouth. When I trout fish, I prefer hemostats, but it's totally a preference thing. Just make sure that you carry one of the two.

5) A bait bag of some sort. This is the easiest way to carry live bait. You just hook it on your vest, and you're good to go. If you don't want to buy one from somewhere like JRWfishing.com, just read my other articles to find out how to make one.

6) Matches and/or a lighter in a Ziploc bag. You just never know when you might need a fire. Better safe than sorry.

7) A power bar of some sort. Just like the matches, better safe than sorry when you suddenly get hungry enough to eat a dead horse.

8) A small waterproof flashlight. Just like the previous two, better safe than sorry. If you're 2 miles from your vehicle and it's suddenly dark, you'll be glad you have a flashlight with you.

9) Nail clippers on a retractor. This way your clippers are always right there and ready to go. Your dentist will thank you as well. Dentists aren't too fond of fishermen biting their excess line.

10) A wader repair kit - You only need to pop a hole in your waders one time, when you're 2 miles from your truck and it's 40 degrees and raining outside to know that this ones true. Just take my word for it.

If you have at least these 10 things in your fishing vest, you should be safe and good to go. Of course, you may add things to your hearts desire, but these basics should get you through and make for a very safe and happy fishing trip.

Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country... Montana!

Gang Hooks Tied & Ready To Fish: http://www.jrwfishing.com/gang_hooks.asp

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Kreg Jig K4 Drill Guide Spacers, 3-Piece Set

Kreg Jig K4 Drill Guide Spacers, 3-Piece Set Review

Kreg Jig K4 Drill Guide Spacers, 3-Piece Set Feature

• Set of three drill guide spacers
• Each spacer compensates for an additional 1/4" material thickness
• For quick and easy repair applications

Kreg Jig K4 Drill Guide Spacers, 3-Piece Set Overview

Use with a Kreg Jig K4 for quick and easy repair applications. Each spacer compensates for an additional 1/4" in material thickness. Spacers attach to the K4 Drill Guide Block. Use one block for 3/4" material, two for 1" material, and three for 1-1/4" material.

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: May 12, 2010 10:50:07

Norfield DOORTECH 2700 Layout Guide - Marks Mortise Lock Temp: 4000-7000, 1-3/4" w/ 2-3/4" Backset

Norfield DOORTECH 2700 Layout Guide - Marks Mortise Lock Temp: 4000-7000, 1-3/4" w/ 2-3/4" Backset Review

Norfield DOORTECH 2700 Layout Guide - Marks Mortise Lock Temp: 4000-7000, 1-3/4" w/ 2-3/4" Backset Feature

• Manufacturer Template No. 4000-7000
• Marks Mortise Lock Function Guide

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: May 09, 2010 05:05:05

Does Your Chimney Need to Be Repaired?

A chimney is probably one of the most ignored and poorly maintained structures on a home mainly because of lack of access and most people have a fear of heights.

Things to watch for if your chimney is having problems is crumbling mortar joints, cracked or broken brick, a cracked or missing crown on top of the chimney, a leaning chimney(which is really bad) and water damage inside your home around the chimney. You should contact a chimney repair or mason contractor to fix your chimney problems.

But if you are up to the challenge here is what you will need to do, first depending on how bad it is most chimney problems can be fixed with a little chimney tuckpointing. You will first need a good grinder, not a cheap $20 on either, buy a dewalt or hitatchi for about $120.00 then you will also need a good diamond 4 inch wheel to go on it, they will run you about $65.00.

Start by grinding out every mortar joint as deep as you can get the blade in, be sure to wear safety glasses and a mask if not you will regret it later. After all the joints have been ground out take your brush and clean out all the joints thoroughly. Now you will need to mix your mortar, after it is mixed it is easiest to use a grout bag to fill the joints, which resembles a large cake decorating bag if you dont know what one is. Be sure you mix is fluid enough to flow through bag but not too wet where it has no body or else you will have a huge mess on your hands. Depending on temperature you have to check your joints frequently to see if they are ready to be struck with a striking iron or a rake.

After you have struck or raked your joints brush them down to remove loose mortar and clean up the chimney. Next check the concrete cap, if it is cracked then it should be replaced and a new one should be poured in its place that is alteast 4 inches thick. After that task is completed check the chimney flashing and be sure it is installed correctly and is hole and crack free or it may need to be caulked up or replaced. Then clean up your roof with a broom or hose but if using water try not to spray your chimney till its dry.

That's pretty much how a brick tuckpointing job is done for an existing chimney, if you are unsure of any of the above task you really should have a mason contractor do the work for you.

Chimney Repair
brick tuckpointing

-NICE SNOOK ON PLASTIC JIG IN THE GLADES-

This guy has to be the luckiest bastard in the world because before today he has never thrown a plastic jig in his hole life.But practice pays and in the course of one morning he did it .And all wile having a ham and cheese sandwich -SNOOK -SNOOK -SNOOK-----------JOEY-FLATS----TWON-THE-DON-www.YOUTUBE.COM/FISHTHISKID



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NJOkIfvgew&hl=en

Kreg Jig Material Support Stop

Kreg Jig Material Support Stop Review

This stop is just an added degree for ease of adjustment. It makes slight moves easier and more consistently than using a clamp and stop block.

Kreg Jig Material Support Stop Feature

• Material support stop
• Repeat pocket holes in the same location on multiple workpieces
• Works in conjunction with Kreg drill bits
• Serves as a height support for large panels

Kreg Jig Material Support Stop Overview

This Kreg Material Support Stop allows you to place pocket holes in exactly the same location on multiple workpieces.The stop can also be swung out of the way to serve as a height support for large panels. Use with Kreg Jig K3 Master System and Kreg drill bits.

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Apr 28, 2010 01:35:11

Kreg PHD BOOK The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Count Book by Danny Proulx

Kreg PHD BOOK The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Count Book by Danny Proulx Review

This book helped me utiilize my Kreg Pocket Screw kit to it's full advantage on my last project. I intend to modify a couple of the projects to meet my needs but fully intend to use the pocket screw concept to build...

Kreg PHD BOOK The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Count Book by Danny Proulx Feature

• Learn to build gorgeous furniture easily with the pocket hole jig
• Make strong, simple joints quickly with the pocket hole jig
• Authored by Danny Proulx

Kreg PHD BOOK The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Count Book by Danny Proulx Overview

Kreg PHD Book The Pocket Hole Drilling Jig Project Book by Danny Proulx

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Apr 25, 2010 18:10:16

Rubber Bands and Fishing - Another Fishing Tip

Don't throw away anything that even looks as if it can be used when fishing! All fishermen have a collecting "gene" of some sort. And if it is not a collecting one, then it is definitely a "might come in handy" gene. When the fishing season is over but you are feeling nostalgic, get your gear out and go through it. If you like you can even pretend you are cleaning and sorting everything out.

When you do this you should find rubber bands in your 'might come in handy" section - and if not, get them. Beg, borrow or steal them, as they say. Just make sure you have a few on hand the next time you go fishing. In fact why not use them to hold together some of your fishing items before putting them away again. There are many items that go beyond the typical gear (hook, line and sinker types of things)and one of the most useful ones is a rubber band. Always have a few handy in your tackle box and a couple in one of your vest pockets will do nicely.

Rubber bands can hold your fishing rod together and so reduce accidental breaking. This also makes for much easier carrying, setting up and storing after you finished fishing for the day. What about your monofilament? Both for the spare line and the line that you have on your reel. A rubber band will keep your line in order so you wont have to spend precious fishing time unwinding and sorting out twisted lines and knots.

Sometimes you overestimate the carrying size of your tackle boxes so they are all but bursting open. A rubber band will hold it together for you. Or perhaps your nail clipper is lost in one of your many vest pockets - a rubber band through the end hole and fastened to the outside of the vest will help you out (just make sure you remember there is a limit to its elasticity before you pull it out).

In time other practical uses will come to you, like the double rubber band round your knife so it wont slip out as you bend down to clean your fish. A rubber band is not exactly a fisherman's best friend, but it certainly is a great little item that provides useful service.

Philip Robinson is happily married and a father of five. One of his passions is fishing and much of what he writes originated while teaching his children to fish. You can visit his latest fishing related website on fishing tackle boxes and fishing backpacks (as well as other fishing accessories).

Cherry Wood Wall Shelf - How to Build a Good Product to Sell in Craft Stores and Craft Shows

The need for variety of products to be displayed in booths both in craft stores and crafts shows is one of the most important factors to be successful in the craft business. But intermingled throughout all the different products must be one main simple to build product that will be the base of your business. You need a product that will sell many times over to many people browsing through your booth. It is the many different products that keep your customers in your booth but it is the one item that produces many sales that keep you in business.

One great project that fits this requirement is the cherry wood wall shelf. This shelf usually is a one tier decorative shelf with wood brackets. Some of the reasons this item is a great product are:

*The shelf consists of only four (4) parts- There is a top shelf with a groove cut for plates, a pair of decorative brackets, a back-plate spanning between the brackets and a pair of metal hangers.

*Made with Cherry as a wood choice- The reason for using cherry is for ease of finishing. Cherry wood can be finished with Danish oil and that's it. A coat of furniture wax can be applied if desired but not required.

*This product can be sold very competitively- The need to have a product that people will walk through and buy at the spur of the moment is very important. A family browsing through a craft show on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon usually will not pay a large amount of money for spur of the moment items. A simple shelf can usually sell for $20.00 - $30.00 and can be discounted as the end of the show approaches.

*The cost of materials and production time is favorable for craft show items- The cost of materials should be between $7.00 - $11.00 and production time is about 1-1/2 hours per shelf.

Building this product is rather simple and the steps can be batched together to produce volume. In order to get the most value for the money we are using rough cut lumber for our project. Following are the steps needed to complete this item:

*Cut the top to your desired length, usually 18" to 36" is normal. The width should be 6".

*Cut a 8" x 8" piece for the pair of brackets.

*Cut a back-plate piece approximately 5" wide x about 4" shorter in length than the top.

*Run all pieces through a planer and then a joiner to create a smooth face, back and square edges.

*Sand all pieces down to a smooth finish using an orbital sander.

*Take the top and rout a round over edge on one side and two ends of the top side of the top.

*Cut a plate groove on the top of the top shelf about 3/4" in from the back. This groove can run completely from end to end or start and stop approximately 1" in from either end.

*Cut the brackets from the 8" x 8" piece. Each bracket should be 6" tall and 5" wide. The front end of each bracket should be a "S" shape to form a decorative bracket. This can be cut with a jig or band saw.
*Rout a round over or cove on each side of the front end of each bracket following the "S" shape to add more flair to your project.

*Next take the back-place piece and rout a bead on the top and bottom of the face. You can also cut out a design such as hearts on the face. There are several ways to decorate the back-plate piece and it is best to look through some craft magazines to find a design you like.

*Hand sand all piece to a fine smooth finish.

*On the outside face of each bracket drill a hole and counter bore where the brackets are to be attached to the back-plate. Screw the brackets to the back-place and add plugs to the holes in the brackets. Cut and sand off the plugs with fine sandpaper using an orbital sander.

*Align and mark where the brackets/back-plate piece will attached to the top. Drill and counter bore through the top of the top shelf. Attach the bracket/back-plate piece to the top and plug the holes. Cut plugs and sand smooth with an orbital sander.

*Do one final hand sanding of the assembled shelf and use tack cloth to remove all dust.

*Finish piece by applying a generous coating of Danish Oil and wipe down. Allow to dry and if desired rub down with a coat of furniture wax.

*Attach metal hangers to back of shelf to complete the item.

In order to produce enough quantity you should cut enough material to produce around 20 to 30 shelves. As you follow through the steps make sure all the material is completed before moving to the next step. Don't make one shelf at a time. Also mix up the sizes of the shelves so you have a few 18", 24", 30" and 36" shelves when you have completed all the steps.

My name is Ernie Sharpe and I hope this article has been helpful. If you would like to read more of my woodworking lenses please click here for my bio page on squidoo.com. I also invite you to visit my site: http://www.woodworkinginretirement.info for more project plans to build in your workshop.

Goat on the Green/ Swallow Tail

"Goat on the Green" is an Irish jig. i THINK i may have made up those bowings myself, but i'm not sure.. they're written in on my sheet music in pencil so if i didn't then perhaps it was my once-teacher/friend.. or she might have suggested it "Swallow Tail" is also an Irish jig i'm not sure if the transition is smooth enough--i just came up with it so it may need more work



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkkN13uFfSw&hl=en

SAW VI Pumpkin STYLE

Follow me on Twitter: www.twitter.com I got a great idea to use a jig saw to carve a pumpkin for Halloween 2009. It did a good job. Didn't take long at all. I used a drill to start a hole to put the saw in. If I can get more pumpkins I'm going to blow one up. It was a bit messy, but the tools cleaned up quite nice afterwards.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swckA94-cU0&hl=en

Sure Fire Bank Fishing Technique for Steelhead

OK so I have been talking a lot about fly fishing lately so I thought I would change subjects and talk about some of the techniques that I use when I am bank fishing.

I know a lot of hard core Fly Fisherman will have a fit to hear that I do still use a spinning real for catching fish but I just love fishing of any kind.

Taking many of my less experienced friends and some for first time Steelhead fishing I have found a way to get them hooked into a fish without much coaching. This technique is simple to learn and if done properly losing gear is at a minimum. This is great for the first timers or the less experience because it lets them spend more time fishing and less time tying up rigging's. This system is also very productive if done properly and I have caught quite a few steelhead using this method myself.

Using a slip bobber or float is one of the easiest ways to take steelhead that I have found for the bank fisherman this method is also used by boaters since it is so productive. With the slip bobber you are able to adjust the depth of your jig or bait so that it drifts just off the bottom of the river. I have seen this method used by fishermen fishing off of a jetty or pier and they too had very good success while using this method.

One of the best place to use this method is in a slow flowing section of the river the depth of the hole is not important since you are able to adjust the depth of the jig easily. As long as the current is slow enough to allow the jig or bait to drift naturally and the depth remains constant at least through a portion of the hole it should be a good place to try this method.

Knowing where the steelhead like to lay is the key to this system as with any fishing technique, and the easiest way to find this out is to watch where others are fishing if any are around. Once you learn how to read a river you will be able to use this technique in a number of spots, learning how to read a river will come with time. If you are new to the sport most fisherman will be glad to give you some pointers just be courteous when joining your fellow fishermen on the river.

When you find that place where you are going to fish the technique is simple cast upstream from where you are standing watch the corky once your line hits the water. Make sure the corky is on top of your float if it's not you may have to give your line a sharp short jerk to get your jig to flow freely through your float. Let your float drift naturally through the hole and keep up the slack in your line. Most of the time when a fish hits your jig your float will go under, however watch your float closely and if it should make any unnatural movement set the hook.

Items Required:

Slip bobber

Barrel swivel

Jig

Egg Sinker

Corky

Bobber Stop

Setting up your line:

1st slip on the bobber stop then bead and run it up the line about 5 feet or so

2nd Thread on the corky

3rd Thread on your float

4th Thread on the Egg Sinker

5th Now tie one end of your swivel to the end of your line. (I like to use the double cinch knot)

6th Take your jig and tie it to your leader which should be between 12 to 18 inches long.
The leader should be lighter then you're main line.

7th Tie the jig and leader to your swivel.

Once you have this tied up set the depth you want your lure or bait at and you are ready to start fishing

http://www.steelhead-gear.com for all your fishing needs

Ice Fishing Teaser

This is a quick teaser from a 4 hour ice fishing trip to Antero Res in CO. We'll be covering all aspects of ice fishing including the spots, fish and gear you'll want to know about. Remember to check out our radio show during ice months for updates on conditions and techniques. Ceck the schedule at www.milehighsports.com



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlH8KgU1pl4&hl=en

Octopus Floods Aquarium

Santa Monica, (CA) February 26, 2009 - When Santa Monica Pier Aquarium staff member Aaron Kind showed up early to work on Thursday morning, it was clear that something had gone terribly wrong. "The first thing I noticed was that there was water everywhere," said Kind. He quickly traced the source of the problem to the Aquarium's recently renovated Kids' Corner tanks and was able to shut off the flow of water. Emergency phone calls were made to Aquarium staff and everyone assembled quickly to get the marine education center back into working order before a school bus arrived with 60 students for a 9:30 am field trip. Aquarist Brianne Emhiser was still asleep on her day off when her phone rang at 7:10 am Emhiser was one of the first staff to respond and traced the source of the problem to the Aquarium's small two-spotted octopus. "Our best guess is that the octopus, who is incredibly gregarious and curious, tugged on a valve in her tank last night causing a steady stream of water to overflow out of the tank. We're estimating we lost a few hundred gallons of sea water onto the Aquarium floor," Emhiser said.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ne9m6cLEUYc&hl=en

Ice Fishing - Down Below

Early ice fishing action down below.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM9iAKVARAU&hl=en

Five Star Knob with Through-Hole, 5/16'' 18 tpi

Five Star Knob with Through-Hole, 5/16'' 18 tpi Review

Five Star Knob with Through-Hole, 5/16'' 18 tpi Overview

Three different styles available (sold separately). Each style is available in thread sizes: 1/4''-20, 5/16''-18 and 3/8''-16.

The 2" T knob with Through-Hole (shown left) gives you that little extra torque when you need it. Narrow profile allows better clearance.

The Five Star Knob with Through-Hole (shown center) and insert accommodates bolts of various lengths. Works great with our T-slot system.

The Five Star Knob with 1" Stud (shown right) is the studded version of our most popular knob.

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Mar 30, 2010 19:45:09

GMC - The Jig (feat. Bubba Shakesphere)

Irish hip-hop in the Irish language (Gaeilge). Taken from gmc's 'Fillin' The Hole EP', download the EP for free at www.gmcbeats.com



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVJI9_xLSFY&hl=en

Pocket Hole Jig

Tim Carter, of askthebuilder.com, demonstrates how to attach two pieces of wood that can be detached later on in the project.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5cza-XVSHA&hl=en

Building a Bird Feeder For Your Children

Teaching your children how to build a bird feeder is a very simple task. It doesn't take any skill or a lot of knowledge, and it will be great to build the children's knowledge as well as helping you spend some quality time with them.

You should first purchase the materials ahead of time, so that all you have to do when you begin teaching the children how to build a bird feeder.

You will need to buy some bird feed 4 - 12 inch 1 inch by 2 inch boards 1 - 12 inch by 12 inch piece of 3/8 inch plywood An 8 foot 2 inch by 4 inch wall stud A roll of craft wire A 3/8 inch dowel approximately 3 or 4 inches long A heavy plastic or metal lid

Then gather your tools that you will need.

A hammer Some 1 inch nails A drill and a ¼ inch bit A pair of wire cutters A step ladder A jig saw A pair of safety glasses And a set of post hole diggers

Place the post hole diggers and the step ladder near the location that you are planning to set up the bird feeder.

Then place the tools and the materials on a work bench that can easily be observed by the children.

You may want to cut the 2x4 stud with the jig saw first, marking off a 1 ½ foot mark, and labeling the area below the mark to go into the ground. Then make another mark 4 or 5 feet from the mark that you just made, and cut at the top mark. The remaining length of the 2x4 stud will be to hold the bird feeder. After cutting 2 of the 1x2 strips into 12 inch pieces, and 2 strips 11 inches, the remainder of the strip can be cut to whatever the distance would be from the L shape structure that you just cut, using it for a brace.

Take the craft wire and cut it into 4 - 2 foot lengths, and lay them to the side.

Now your are ready to assemble the bird feeder with a squirrel deterrent.

Place the 1 foot x 1 foot piece of plywood flat on the work bench and nail one of the 1x2 precut strips on the plywood. Then place one of the 11 inch pieces beside the first piece that you just nailed down. Do this on all four sides of the bird feeder until you have a 2 inch edge around the plywood.

On each end of the plywood you should now put a nail in each corner of the plywood being careful to leave half of the head of the nail sticking out.

Take one of the 2 foot wires that you just cut and wrap it around one of the protruding nails in one of the corners and then do the same to the remaining three nails.

Take your plastic lid that you are going to use to keep the squirrels from stealing all the bird seed, and drill a hole directly in the center, this will allow you to string the wire through the hole. With the jig saw cut your dowel into five or more even lengths, or you may just only want to use one of the pieces to hold up the lid. Next take one of the pieces of dowel and make a loop in the wire about 1 foot up the wire and twist the dowel around the wire pulling it tightly.

After you have all this done, move all the parts to the site you are going to set the bird feeder up, if you haven't already. Nail the shortest 2x4 piece of wall stud to the top of the longest piece by laying both pieces on the ground, then nail a piece of 1x2 strips to form a brace for the L shape that you just made.

Place the structure in the ground and dill it with dirt. Using your step ladder take the 4 strands of wire and pull them through the hole in the plastic lid all the way down to the dowel. Carefully twist the remaining wire around the short end of the L shape and put some bird seed in the feeder. Now all you have to do is keep watch for any birds that will come to feed.

Building a bird feeder is as exciting to build for you as well as teaching your children how to do a project.

You can find more information about building a bird feeder at our site. While you're there browse through our selection of squirrel proof bird feeders and other seed feeders.

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5-Sizes

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5-Sizes Review

Works great, is the standard for diy pocket joinery. I have used this to build furniture, cabinets, and for garden boxes. Works well, has a strong joint, and have no problems with the equipment. Get your screws in bulk if you can to save some money.

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5-Sizes Feature

• Contains 675 of 5 most used Screws
• Includes self-tapping screw sizes for pocket-screw joinery
• All Kreg screws feature a deep #2 square drive
• Includes a durable easy-to-carry case
• Includes a a needle-point self tapping tip

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5-Sizes Overview

This kit contains 5 of our most popular self tapping screw sizes for pocket hole joinery. Use a 1" screw in 1 2" thick stock, a 1 1 4" screw in 3 4" stock and a 2 1 2" screw in 1 1 2" stock. Self tapping No. 2 square drive. Approximately 675 assorted scre

Available at Amazon Check Price Now!

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Mar 24, 2010 00:00:59

Kreg K3MS K3 Master Pocket Hole Jig System

List Price:	$149.99
Price:	$139.00 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping.(price and information store at 19-02-2010)
You Save:	$10.99 (7%)

Technical Details

• Pocket hole joinery combination kit; everything you need in one case
• Drill guide block interchangeable between benchtop and portable base; for materials 1/2-Inch to 1-1/2-Inch thick
• Constructed of hardened steel
• Includes drill guide block, portable base, dust shroud, material support stop, clamp, bits, depth collar, wrench, screws, case, manual
• 8-Pound; lifetime guarantee
  

Product Description

Amazon.com Product Description

The Kreg Jig Master System (K3MS) is the ultimate Pocket-Hole Jig on the market and a great choice for any woodworking enthusiast. Between its front-side clamping capabilities, Dust-Collection Attachment, Material Support Stop, removable 3-hole Drill Guide, and seemingly endless adjustability, this jig truly has it all. If you're serious about Kreg Joinery, look no further than the Kreg Jig Master System.

The Kreg Jig® Master System offers: Everything you need to get started with Kreg Joinery Easy access front-side clamping A convenient dust collection shroud for chip-free work areas A patented, 3-Hole Drill Guide with a Lifetime Warranty

The patented 3-Hole Drill Guide features a Hardened Steel Core and lets you work wherever you need to most.

Kit includes everything you need to get started.

The Kreg Jig Master System is the ultimate kit for Kreg Joinery, letting you build professional wood joints quickly and easily.

The dust collection shroud fits a 1-1/4-inch shop vac hose and keeps your work area clear.

Kreg Joinery: No Glue or Complicated Math Required
The Kreg Jig Master System takes advantage of a technique called Kreg Joinery. Unlike other techniques, Kreg Joinery requires no glue, no complicated math, and no small army of clamps to make wood joints that will last.

With Kreg Joinery, you can finish projects in hours instead of days. You won't spend any time clamping, waiting for glue to dry, or wading through complicated math. It essentially involves drilling a hole at an angle into one workpiece, and connecting it to another workpiece with a self-tapping screw.

Amazingly Strong with Half the Effort
Unlike mortise and tenons, dowels, and biscuits, the self-tapping screws inside of every Kreg Joint hold the stock together without glue. You don't have to worry about precisely lining up dowel holes, or spending hours cutting a perfect mortise and tenon--you simply drill the holes, drive the screws, and move on to the next project.

And because what you see is what you get with Kreg Joinery, you won't spend all your time calculating stock-overlaps and dry-fitting individual workpieces. All you need is simple math to get fast and accurate results.

Kreg Jig Master System: The Ultimate Kit for Kreg Joinery
The Kreg Jig Master System is designed for the serious woodworker or woodworking enthusiast. It can be used for thousands of applications, including furniture making and cabinetry...even simple household repairs.

The Kreg Jig Master System includes everything you need to get started with Kreg Joinery. Its easy-access front-side clamp puts everything within arm's reach and increases the speed of your work. The dust collection shroud snaps easily in place and connects to all standard 1-1/4-inch hoses, letting you say goodbye to woodchips once and for all.

The system's Material Support Stop adjusts to the edge of the board to precisely repeat pocket-hole positions, then swings out of the way for panels. The Drill Guide Block slides in 1/8-inch increments to center a screw in material from 1/2-inch to 1-1/2-inches thick, providing you with virtually unlimited adjustability.

If you're new to Kreg, Kreg also offers the, which is ideal for beginners. For basic woodworking or home repair projects, the has what you need to get started.

The Kreg Difference
While each Kreg Jig has its own features designed to meet the particular needs of its users, all Kreg Jigs share a design and high-quality construction which add up to the "Kreg Difference."

Each Kreg Jig features hardened steel drill guides that carry a 100-percent lifetime guarantee. The body of each Kreg Jig is made from a heavy-duty glass-reinforced nylon that offers the resiliency and flexibility you need without sacrificing strength and durability.

To create a cleaner pocket-hole and a more finished appearance, all Kreg Jigs shroud the bit and support the workpiece through 100-percent of the drill-stroke. The end result is minimal bit deflection, reduced tear-out, and a clean, pluggable Pocket-Hole fit for finished work.

Every Kreg Jig also features an optimized 15 degree drilling angle designed to increase driving efficiency and minimize the overall size of the Pocket-Hole. This same Pocket-Hole can be created by the Kreg Jig in materials from 1/2- to 1-1/2 inches thick.

The Kreg Jig Master System includes a 30 Day Customer Satisfaction Guarantee and Lifetime Warranty on its Hardened Steel Drill Guide.

What's in the Box
Kreg Jig Master System, portable base, face clamp, stepped drill bit, 6-inch square driver, 3-inch square driver, starter screw set, starter plug set, detailed instruction manual, and durable carrying case.

Product Description

Packed with features that make pocket hole Hole joinery even more productive. The K3 Kreg Jig gives you more flexibility than ever both in its use and in its ability to be upgraded as your pocket hole needs grow. Our ultimate kit for pocket hole joinery

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